Sometimes, you get a run of swell that is so good your usual bitching about crowds and the state of surfing in Murrika goes out the window.
Look at this picture of Malibu. The crowd is past critical mass, and it heavily populated with sweepers. That should disgust me, but the waves in the picture and my own experience completely throw that out the window and continue to fill me with stoke.
I really wish I could have taken the day off and made it up to Newport to watch something that we probably are not going to see again anytime soon.
However, I was able to surf at some weirdo reefs that are actually close to my house, instead of having to make the usual drives of north to Oceanside in the Summer and to points south in the winter. I’m also stoked that I was able to get two shakedown sessions on my 6-2 x 19 x 2 5/16 Coil Widerboard that’s going to be my winter board during Marie. It acts just like a real HPSB should; its a little stiff when he waves are small but when they are going it turns, carves, and gouges just like a board should.
During Lowell, I was surfing my 5-6 x 19 1/4 x 2 5/16 Coil Chopstick. This thing would have worked during Marie as well but I was happy for the longer rail line of the 6-2 for all of the water moving around. I’m actually not running my beloved AM2s in this Chopstick; I am running the large Fannings in the fronts and the small Fanning in the center. Mike Daniel knocked the “next generation” surfboard concepts out of the park on this board. It is so fast and so HP.
Let’s hope this is a warmup for El Niño. I actually think that I’m set on boards